PRE VIEW: REISS AW 13

Reiss lifted the lid on their Autumn Winter 2013 collection this week and I was lucky enough to be attend the press day. Reiss is one of the few British labels that deftly balances luxury, high end quality with much more affordable prices.

My preview of the new collection started off with a Reiss benchmark: fine tailoring. I really liked the modern, slim fit silhouette for the season, cut in a variety of luxe fabrics and colourways. I was immediately drawn to a soft grey three piece suite in Prince of Wales check, styled with a matching houndstooth military overcoat. It's just quintessentially British and totally on trend when you look at some of the other great winter collections. The colour palette for tailoring and the collection as a whole expands to include deep, inky blues, crisp wintry whites and rich shades of brown and green.

My favourite part of the collection has got to be the outerwear. It's usually the backbone of any great winter collection and Reiss really knocked it out of the ball park with their offering. It's a great mix of formal overcoats and trenchcoats to more casual options like quilted biker jackets and this year's breakout wardrobe favourite, the bomber jacket all presented in fresh contemporary cuts and fabrics.

Aside from the clothes, I was really impressed with the new fragrance line from Reiss. It's made up of two perfumes, Black Oud for men and Grey Flower for women. The fragrances were created by Reiss founder, David Reiss and perfumer, Azzi Glasser. I tried both of them and I think they are truly a feast for the senses. As much as I love both of them, I preferred Grey Flower. The scent is surprisingly musky for a women's fragrance. It's not flowery or frou-frou but quite mature with a spicy kick. The perfume range took over two years to develop and from what I can tell, the outcome was worth the wait. they've got the look and feel of luxury and decadence without breaking the bank. Look out for Black Oud and Grey Flower when they launch in September.

Looking back at the collection it's clear that Reiss are looking at creating timeless pieces. Pieces that will sit well in your current wardrobe and transcend seasons without looking dated. With so much disposable fashion at both ends of the scale it's great to see a brand that understands what true style is all about.

BLEU06 Loves 1971 - Spring/Summer 2013

1971 is the youthful diffusion line of British fashion heavyweight, REISS. Like other great diffusion lines like T by Alexander Wang and Marc by Marc Jacobs, 1971 delivers all the quality and creativity of the main line at a more affordable price. A dream come true no? I really love how fresh and contemporary the collection is as a whole. The citrus hues and hints of grey and white are what spring is all about. It's a mix of edgy seasonal pieces and classic wardrobe staples with a a sharp, punchy twist. Don't just take my word for it though, check out the campaign, shot by USED Magazine and featuring the irresistible Jed Texas:

Now that you've had a glimpse of the new collection, I've picked 3 of my favourite items and styled them with pieces from both the 1971 collection and the REISS main line. I went with wardrobe staples in clever fabrications and colours that work well as complete looks or separates.
The New White Shirt At first glance the Oliver shirt might seem a bit chaotic but I was drawn to the multi-directional stripes almost immediately. The cut is youthful and the stripes are just the right width. I paired it with the sports luxe feel of the Vulcan baseball jacket and Yale chambray trousers. As a HUGE fan of anything made of suede I couldn't think of a better way to cap this look off than the tasselled Stasko loafers. 

The Classic Leather Jacket: Revisited I'm in love with the April Leather Jacket in Airforce Blue, the raglan sleeves and the steely shade of blue make it the perfect alternative to the classic black leather jacket. Paired with the seafoam Juke jumper, crisp white Wickham chinos and the Chato canvas pumps, this is my dream off-duty look.

The Bold Knit Jumper My last pick from the 1971 collection is this William jumper with contrasting navy and off-white panels. It's bold and edgy and definitely way up there on my must-have list. The small flecks dotted all over it add a soft touch and texture that I can't get enough of. The Robinson  man-clutch document wallet is another personal must-have, it matches that tiny sliver of neon orange in the jumper's concealed pocket, perfection! The Charger jeans have the most flattering slim-fit silhouette, with the hems rolled up and finished off with the Stasko loafers as before.

Xander Zhou - London Collections: Men AW 13

Xander Zhou's Autumn Winter 2013 collection was a tribute to the "self-confident boy", just as comfortable on the street as he is on the catwalk. He presented a body of work that was heavily inspired by streetwear and military staples, re-presented in luxurious, tactile fabrics. The beloved hoodie and bomber jacket were re-imagined and given a sartorial yet ultra wearable edge. Metal monograms on lapels and ornate brooches were a throwback to military uniforms.

In contrast to the more formal tailoring Xander infused a sense of playfulness and mischief to the collection. This could be seen in the tongue in cheek catchphrases like "BOYS WILL BE BOYS" and "I AM UNDRESSING YOU" which were stitched or printed on to collars and around the frames of sunglasses. The footwear was one of my favourite aspects of the collections. They were designed with an 80s sneaker feel that was an appealing contrast to the sharp tailoring.

Zhou was able to cleverly toe the lines of gender with floor-length coats and jumpers that draped subtly over the shoulder, cropped tops and high-waisted trousers. I really loved the way he played with varying lengths and layering in a way that seemed almost futuristic but not totally over-the-top.

Although he's still relatively new on the British menswear scene, Zhou's talent is undeniable. There's a level of detail and expertise that can only be experienced when you see these garments up close. Luckily I had the privilege of seeing them from the front row and I was spellbound. He closed the London Collections line-up in fine style and definitely gained a new fan in me. 






 

Matthew Miller - London Collections: Men AW 13

"A New Revolution" was at the core of Matthew Miller's Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Staged in the cavernous interior of the Old Sorting Office he sent his models out in shades of black and slate. Brief flashes of red echoed the anarchy and rebellion of a discontent generation.

Miller used the slogan "Born To Fail" as a metaphor for the current state of society and the disparity between Generation X and Y. The slogan was seen emblazoned on sweatshirts and expertly stitched onto jacket sleeves. There was an air of precision in the tailoring and overcoats that reminded me of uniforms. The show notes talked about taking the uniforms of Generation X and re-purposing them for "a displaced Generation Y." An idea that is very much on trend when you look at the youth of today.

Personal highlights included the gradient knit jumper, the crocodile embossed biker jacket and the army issue styled luggage, a collaboration with H by Harris. I also loved the shoes, which were a collaboration with Timberland. Matthew created exclusive custom made footwear that featured the red and black accents from the collection.

Matthew Miller presented a collection that was more commercial than his past efforts (who can forget the gorgeous grafitti print suit from AW12?) but didn't compromise on the depth and high standards that he is known for.

James Long - London Collections: Men AW 13

 

James Long's Autumn Winter 2013 collection took the established preconception of casual sportswear and turned it on its head. From the elasticated trouser legs that accompanied every look to the embellished hoodies and rubberised plaid macs, there was a sense of playfulness that created a contemporary and wearable silhouette. Long's signature knits were also prominent, the way he cleverly created incredibly detailed 'visual terrains' in his knitwear was deeply satisfying. Long's new spin on the classic bomber jacket featured geometric padding and quilting fused with knitted sleeves.

Then there were the nods to John Waters, pink flamingos and one of his most iconic characters, Divine. There was a real sense of excitement when those all-too-familiar arched eyebrows were seen emblazoned on raglan sleeved jumpers and sweatshirts. These glamorous motifs were a stark contrast to the dark, mood colour palette they were rendered in.

His attention to detail and vast experiments with fabric and technique again proved why James Long is a force to be reckoned with in the fashion industry. Seeing him at the end of the show in one of the rubberised macs from the collection was a nice touch, a great sign that he believes in the work he showcased.


Images via: HommeModel

YMC - London Collections: Men AW13

There was a palpable sense of nostalgia in the Autumn Winter 2013 collection from YMC. Designer Fraser Moss took inspiration from the brand's post-punk, 90s roots. The youthful exuberance and frustration that defined the era was represented by the beret, a clear statement piece for the season. The combination of relaxed knitwear and fine tailoring gave the collection an understated cool factor that really embodies the YMC look. Zip detailing and exaggerated pockets on boiler suits and chinos were functional, almost uniform-like.

Moss' palette for Autumn/Winter was predominantly black and grey but it was the rich jade tones and brief flashes of pink and red that really brought the collection to life. One of my favourite highlights was a jade green cardigan over a checkerboard print shirt and slate coloured chinos topped with a beret and shades. It just screamed effortless sophistication.
 

There's something really charming about YMC's 'no frills' approach to design, nothing seems just thrown on to distract or shock. The result is a collection that is timeless but contemporary at the same time.

Images via: HommeModel

LONDON COLLECTIONS: Men - Day 2

By now you'll know that London Collections: Men is in full swing, after Monday's brilliant turnout it'll be great to see what Day 2 brings. It all kicks off this morning with a special presentation from Burberry. Margaret Howell will be the first runway show of the day at 10.30am. Today's highlights will include collections from emerging talents SIBLING and Christopher Shannon and favourites like Jonathan Saunders and Oliver Spencer. We'll also see a return of the menswear collections from Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood to the London Fashion Week calendar. So there's no doubt that there will be something for everyone today.

BLEU06 will be in the thick of it on Day 2! I managed to nab tickets for YMC, James Long London and Oliver Spencer so look out for live updates and pictures on Twitter @BLEU06ike and Instagram: @BLEU06 

Catch the live stream here and stay tuned for the latest reviews and images from each day.


Here's the full schedule for today:

Image Credits:
Menswear Photography: Sam Hofman 

LIVESTREAM - LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

The second edition of London Collections: Men kicks off today. All eyes will be fixed on London's best and brightest designers over the next 3 days. From fashion stalwarts like Hackett and TOPMAN DESIGN to some of our favourite emerging talents like Agi & Sam and SIBLING to name just a few. Lou Dalton, a personal favourite of mine will kick things off at 10 am, live from The Hospital Club in the heart of London. Catch the live stream here and stay tuned for the latest reviews and images from each day.

Watch out for live updates on twitter: @BLEU06ike



Here's the full schedule for today:

Image Credits:
Menswear Photography: Sam Hofman 

'Tis The Season To... Party - Top 5 Blazers

Whether you're looking to make a big entrance at your end-of-year shindig at work or a fancy family dinner, a statement blazer can really uplift any dreary outfit. Rich velvet and jacquard are some of the go-to fabrics for this time of the year. In terms of colour, the festive season is the best time to experiment with deep, full-body colours like navy and oxblood, subtle metallics will add an extra bit of sparkle but nothing says class more than black.

The great thing about a statement blazer is that you don't need to bother too much with fussy accessories, paired with a sleek shirt, tailored trousers and a great pair of brogues you're guaranteed to achieve the debonair look a la Daniel Craig. Here are my top 5 show-stopping blazers:

Reiss 'Goodwood B' Velvet Blazer - Reiss
TOPMAN Black on Black Metallic Jacquard Blazer - TOPMAN
Paul Smith Navy Floral Print Blazer - Paul Smith
Balmain Satin Trimmed Velvet Blazer - Mr Porter
TOPMAN Red Skinny Tux Suit Jacket - TOPMAN

Thoughts on Maison Martin Margiela x H&M

I'm sure most of you have seen the images from H&M's latest designer collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela out next month. As far as H&M's designer collaborations go this one looks like the most daring. Going with MMM was definitely a brave move, I guess the continued success of their annual collabs means they can afford to partner with artists that might not necessarily cater to the 'everyman.' I'm not saying that us men are crying out for dumbed-down fashion but I just can't see pieces like that asymmetrical mackintosh catching on anytime soon. Also because it's more of a collection of the Maison's 'greatest hits' rather than an entirely new collection it just doesn't feel cohesive enough but then again maybe I'm not the kind of man Margiel caters to? On a positive note it looks like the men's range will be just as robust as what's on offer for women (remember how shockingly limited the Jimmy Choo collection was?). 

There are a couple of pieces that I'm warming too but the true test will be seeing them in the flesh on November 15th. Will you be shopping the H&M x Maison Martin Margiela collection?

Take Flight

I came across pictures of Herschel Supply's Spring/Summer 2013 collection on twitter a few weeks ago and I fell in love with the bird-covered bag seen below. It got me thinking of Agi and Sam's Fall/Winter  2012 collection I saw back in January. I particularly loved the final look, a charming white, bird-print suit. I just loved the playful and quirky humour of the illustrated birds. It almost looks like they were pulled out of a children's story book or nature guide. Herschel Supply Co.'s 'Bird Print' design will be available in their classic models, Heritage, Little America, Novel and Pop Quiz. It's released in January 2013. I've got my eye on the Heritage version, how about you?

Red_White_Blue

BLEU06 wishes our American brothers a great Independence Day tomorrow, whether you’ll be heading down to a beach party, barbecue or fancy dinner, we’ve put together some 4th of July-inspired looks to put you in a patriotic mood.

Lacoste Eastport Coated Canvas Bag - Lacoste
TOPMAN Stars and Stripes Denim Shorts - TOPMAN
River Island Plaited Wristbands - River Island
DC Pool LE Shoes - Urban Industry
The Quiet Life Painted Stripes 5 Panel Cap - ASOS
Reiss Rovner Crew Neck Top - Reiss

Paul Smith Double-Breasted Wool-Blend Twill Blazer - Mr Porter

Dolce & Gabbana Solid Classic Shirt - Matches

TOPMAN Stone Skinny Smart Trousers - TOPMAN

Grenson Archie V Brogues - Grenson

Nick Bronson Knitted Silk Tie - Liberty 

Bald Eagle Brass Brooch - Etsy

Milan Fashion Week: Salvatore Ferragamo SS 2013

Zesty yellows, corals, spearmint greens and cool blues reflected the colours of the sea at Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring Summer 2013 show. A marked difference from the more reserved collections of the past, yesterday’s presentation was a candy-coloured feast for the eyes. Ultra-light knitwear, perfect for summer were paired with contrasting coloured oxford shirts and ties creating even more shades of brilliant colour. The rampant explosions of colour gave way to more subtle experimentation as seen in the hand-painted jackets towards the end. The closing look, a white hot double-breasted jacket with matching trousers was a welcome palette cleanser for such a vibrant spectacle. Each look was paired with sneakers in a variety of eye-popping colour combinations, another trend sweeping across the SS 2013 menswear collections. I really admire the expert way in which they injected impeccable Italian tailoring with such youthful vigour to produce a body of work that would make any budding fashionisto jealous, I certainly am!

Images via: HommeModel

Milan Fashion Week - Neil Barrett SS 2013

Neil Barrett’s Spring Summer 2013 collection embodied the athletic, manly man. Baseball jerseys,  slouchy sweatshirts, and baggy shorts gave the show a relaxed youthful feel. Barrett chose a palette of rich shades of indigo and purple, earthy browns and deep blacks.  The degraded pinstripe prints added texture and depth to suits and shirts. Highlights from the show included lush pony hair slip-ons and iridescent leather jackets, echoing the metallic trend that’s swept menswear collections for Summer 2013. Tailored trousers with satin stripes on the front rather than on the side breathed new life into classic tuxedo trousers. Barrett’s collection again proved that he’s got his finger on the pulse of the sports luxe trend.

Milan Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum SS 2013

If there is one fashion house who truly understand the meaning of re-invention, it would have to be Burberry. Christopher Bailey’s Spring Summer collection, titled, Come Rain or Shine showed a step in a more glitzy direction for the 156 year old global brand. Rather than focussing on the heavy-weight parkas and trench coats they are known for, Bailey explored lightweight cabans in vibrant metallic silks. Suits were cut in dark seersucker fabrics with a silhouette slightly more relaxed than SS12. Micro-ikat and geometric diamond prints in washed-out hues appeared on bomber jackets and long-shirts paired with metallic skinny jeans. The metallic fabrics also found their way into the accessories too as seen in the leather iPad cases and summer carrier bags. Bi-colour bomber jackets in  vibrant satin and metallic leather tones ended the show on a high note. Bailey succeeded in presenting a collection that teetered expertly along the lines of taste without falling head first into vulgarity. 

Images via HommeModel

London Collections: Men - Oliver Spencer SS 2013

Russian Modernism and painter Ben Nicholson were the main inspirations behind Oliver Spencer’s Spring Summer collection for 2013. Spencer has been known for his skilful use of colour and this season was no exception. Vivid shades of blue, orange and red punctuated the grey backdrop of the Old Sorting Office. Spencer breathed new life into signature pieces like The Portland Jacket and the Fisher Jacket with new colour ways and fabric finishes. Aztec prints were expertly applied to jackets and shirts with co-ordinating shorts. Rolled up trouser legs lent a more relaxed silhouette to suiting. The board short was another fine addition to the Oliver Spencer line. Plush suede monk strap and derby  shoes provided the finishing touches to each look.


One of the best things about Oliver Spencer’s show yesterday was the casting, the models that walked the runway varied from fresh faced guys to silver foxes (including an appearance by TOPMAN DESIGN’s head designer Gordon Richardson). As a whole the collection depicted Oliver Spencer as a designer who caters for every man who favours quality and a rigorous attention to detail. It’s refreshing to see a designer who really knows his clientele and is brave enough to put forward a show that would appeal to that audience.


Special thanks to Oliver Spencer and Surgery PR for giving me the opportunity to experience such an exciting show.

Reggie Yates, Dermot O’Leary and David Gandy on the front row at Oliver Spencer

London Collections: Men - SIBLING SS 2013

Since their debut collection in 2008, SIBLING has succeeded in constantly pushing the boundaries of men’s knitwear with innovation and a healthy dose of English humour. Today’s presentation was inspired the youth culture of Brick Lane and the revolutions in Paris and the Arab world. Light-weight knits and cropped jogging shorts in white, pink and shimmering gold dominated the collection. Shrugs and cardigans were festooned with thousands of acrylic paillettes and layered over crisp white shirts or embroidered jumpers.  An urban variation on a Toile de Jouy in a rich blue hue. The extravagant 'pom-pom’ masks were the highlights of a truly spectacular show. It’s no wonder why SIBLING has become one of the most sought-after designer collections on the menswear calendar.

Images via: HommeModel