Designer Spotlight: DIEGO VANASSIBARA

Diego Vanassibara is an emerging mens shoe designer. The half Brazilian, half Italian designer studied at the prestigious Cordwainer's College of Footwear and also has a background in Architecture. I came across Diego and his collection at London Collections earlier this month. I was drawn to the pieces of polished wood crafted onto each shoe. They looked so different compared to a lot of the footwear that's out at the moment. 

His Autumn Winter 2013 collection is made up of six different models, have a closer look at them below. Diego takes inspiration from traditional shoes like the Oxford and Derby, combined with a modern, contemporary twist. Diego chose a rich, autumnal palette: deep shades of coal grey and midnight blue and earthy tones of brown and olive. Traditional Javanese techniques and fine Italian craftsmanship are used to shape each hand-carved wooden component. The wooden components are made of Lacquered Mahogany and New Guinea Rosewood.

The level of craftsmanship seeps through every part of his collection, from the finely polished wooden parts and hand painted leather to the intricate woven leather panels (one of my favourite things ever!). The collection is all about individuality and youthfulness and this obvious in the different silhouettes. The hybrid Derby/Oxford shoe are sophisticated yet fashion forward and the boots have a slightly stacked sole which is so on-trend.  

Talking to Diego and his business partner at London Collections was a real treat, it was great seeing a designer that is as deeply involved and passionate about his work as he is. Without a doubt, I think Diego Vanassibara is one to watch in 2013. 

For more info check his out his website. 

Images courtesy of Diego Vanassibara

Xander Zhou - London Collections: Men AW 13

Xander Zhou's Autumn Winter 2013 collection was a tribute to the "self-confident boy", just as comfortable on the street as he is on the catwalk. He presented a body of work that was heavily inspired by streetwear and military staples, re-presented in luxurious, tactile fabrics. The beloved hoodie and bomber jacket were re-imagined and given a sartorial yet ultra wearable edge. Metal monograms on lapels and ornate brooches were a throwback to military uniforms.

In contrast to the more formal tailoring Xander infused a sense of playfulness and mischief to the collection. This could be seen in the tongue in cheek catchphrases like "BOYS WILL BE BOYS" and "I AM UNDRESSING YOU" which were stitched or printed on to collars and around the frames of sunglasses. The footwear was one of my favourite aspects of the collections. They were designed with an 80s sneaker feel that was an appealing contrast to the sharp tailoring.

Zhou was able to cleverly toe the lines of gender with floor-length coats and jumpers that draped subtly over the shoulder, cropped tops and high-waisted trousers. I really loved the way he played with varying lengths and layering in a way that seemed almost futuristic but not totally over-the-top.

Although he's still relatively new on the British menswear scene, Zhou's talent is undeniable. There's a level of detail and expertise that can only be experienced when you see these garments up close. Luckily I had the privilege of seeing them from the front row and I was spellbound. He closed the London Collections line-up in fine style and definitely gained a new fan in me. 






 

Matthew Miller - London Collections: Men AW 13

"A New Revolution" was at the core of Matthew Miller's Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Staged in the cavernous interior of the Old Sorting Office he sent his models out in shades of black and slate. Brief flashes of red echoed the anarchy and rebellion of a discontent generation.

Miller used the slogan "Born To Fail" as a metaphor for the current state of society and the disparity between Generation X and Y. The slogan was seen emblazoned on sweatshirts and expertly stitched onto jacket sleeves. There was an air of precision in the tailoring and overcoats that reminded me of uniforms. The show notes talked about taking the uniforms of Generation X and re-purposing them for "a displaced Generation Y." An idea that is very much on trend when you look at the youth of today.

Personal highlights included the gradient knit jumper, the crocodile embossed biker jacket and the army issue styled luggage, a collaboration with H by Harris. I also loved the shoes, which were a collaboration with Timberland. Matthew created exclusive custom made footwear that featured the red and black accents from the collection.

Matthew Miller presented a collection that was more commercial than his past efforts (who can forget the gorgeous grafitti print suit from AW12?) but didn't compromise on the depth and high standards that he is known for.

James Long - London Collections: Men AW 13

 

James Long's Autumn Winter 2013 collection took the established preconception of casual sportswear and turned it on its head. From the elasticated trouser legs that accompanied every look to the embellished hoodies and rubberised plaid macs, there was a sense of playfulness that created a contemporary and wearable silhouette. Long's signature knits were also prominent, the way he cleverly created incredibly detailed 'visual terrains' in his knitwear was deeply satisfying. Long's new spin on the classic bomber jacket featured geometric padding and quilting fused with knitted sleeves.

Then there were the nods to John Waters, pink flamingos and one of his most iconic characters, Divine. There was a real sense of excitement when those all-too-familiar arched eyebrows were seen emblazoned on raglan sleeved jumpers and sweatshirts. These glamorous motifs were a stark contrast to the dark, mood colour palette they were rendered in.

His attention to detail and vast experiments with fabric and technique again proved why James Long is a force to be reckoned with in the fashion industry. Seeing him at the end of the show in one of the rubberised macs from the collection was a nice touch, a great sign that he believes in the work he showcased.


Images via: HommeModel

YMC - London Collections: Men AW13

There was a palpable sense of nostalgia in the Autumn Winter 2013 collection from YMC. Designer Fraser Moss took inspiration from the brand's post-punk, 90s roots. The youthful exuberance and frustration that defined the era was represented by the beret, a clear statement piece for the season. The combination of relaxed knitwear and fine tailoring gave the collection an understated cool factor that really embodies the YMC look. Zip detailing and exaggerated pockets on boiler suits and chinos were functional, almost uniform-like.

Moss' palette for Autumn/Winter was predominantly black and grey but it was the rich jade tones and brief flashes of pink and red that really brought the collection to life. One of my favourite highlights was a jade green cardigan over a checkerboard print shirt and slate coloured chinos topped with a beret and shades. It just screamed effortless sophistication.
 

There's something really charming about YMC's 'no frills' approach to design, nothing seems just thrown on to distract or shock. The result is a collection that is timeless but contemporary at the same time.

Images via: HommeModel

LIVESTREAM - LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

The second edition of London Collections: Men kicks off today. All eyes will be fixed on London's best and brightest designers over the next 3 days. From fashion stalwarts like Hackett and TOPMAN DESIGN to some of our favourite emerging talents like Agi & Sam and SIBLING to name just a few. Lou Dalton, a personal favourite of mine will kick things off at 10 am, live from The Hospital Club in the heart of London. Catch the live stream here and stay tuned for the latest reviews and images from each day.

Watch out for live updates on twitter: @BLEU06ike



Here's the full schedule for today:

Image Credits:
Menswear Photography: Sam Hofman 

Milan Fashion Week: Salvatore Ferragamo SS 2013

Zesty yellows, corals, spearmint greens and cool blues reflected the colours of the sea at Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring Summer 2013 show. A marked difference from the more reserved collections of the past, yesterday’s presentation was a candy-coloured feast for the eyes. Ultra-light knitwear, perfect for summer were paired with contrasting coloured oxford shirts and ties creating even more shades of brilliant colour. The rampant explosions of colour gave way to more subtle experimentation as seen in the hand-painted jackets towards the end. The closing look, a white hot double-breasted jacket with matching trousers was a welcome palette cleanser for such a vibrant spectacle. Each look was paired with sneakers in a variety of eye-popping colour combinations, another trend sweeping across the SS 2013 menswear collections. I really admire the expert way in which they injected impeccable Italian tailoring with such youthful vigour to produce a body of work that would make any budding fashionisto jealous, I certainly am!

Images via: HommeModel

London Collections: Men - Oliver Spencer SS 2013

Russian Modernism and painter Ben Nicholson were the main inspirations behind Oliver Spencer’s Spring Summer collection for 2013. Spencer has been known for his skilful use of colour and this season was no exception. Vivid shades of blue, orange and red punctuated the grey backdrop of the Old Sorting Office. Spencer breathed new life into signature pieces like The Portland Jacket and the Fisher Jacket with new colour ways and fabric finishes. Aztec prints were expertly applied to jackets and shirts with co-ordinating shorts. Rolled up trouser legs lent a more relaxed silhouette to suiting. The board short was another fine addition to the Oliver Spencer line. Plush suede monk strap and derby  shoes provided the finishing touches to each look.


One of the best things about Oliver Spencer’s show yesterday was the casting, the models that walked the runway varied from fresh faced guys to silver foxes (including an appearance by TOPMAN DESIGN’s head designer Gordon Richardson). As a whole the collection depicted Oliver Spencer as a designer who caters for every man who favours quality and a rigorous attention to detail. It’s refreshing to see a designer who really knows his clientele and is brave enough to put forward a show that would appeal to that audience.


Special thanks to Oliver Spencer and Surgery PR for giving me the opportunity to experience such an exciting show.

Reggie Yates, Dermot O’Leary and David Gandy on the front row at Oliver Spencer

London Collections: Men - SIBLING SS 2013

Since their debut collection in 2008, SIBLING has succeeded in constantly pushing the boundaries of men’s knitwear with innovation and a healthy dose of English humour. Today’s presentation was inspired the youth culture of Brick Lane and the revolutions in Paris and the Arab world. Light-weight knits and cropped jogging shorts in white, pink and shimmering gold dominated the collection. Shrugs and cardigans were festooned with thousands of acrylic paillettes and layered over crisp white shirts or embroidered jumpers.  An urban variation on a Toile de Jouy in a rich blue hue. The extravagant 'pom-pom’ masks were the highlights of a truly spectacular show. It’s no wonder why SIBLING has become one of the most sought-after designer collections on the menswear calendar.

Images via: HommeModel

London Collections: Men - Lou Dalton SS 2013

The beauty of Lou Dalton’s Summer/Spring 2013 collection was it’s simplicity. That being said, every cut and stitch was precise and considered creating a look that was both wearable and functional. The muted colour palette of icy blues, crisp whites, beiges and navy only emphasised Dalton’s high level of craftsmanship. Accents of neon green and maroon complimented the refined silhouette of the Dalton man. The underlying ethos of tailored pieces juxtaposed with the sports-luxe aesthetic was cleverly employed throughout the collection. This is most evident in the mesh panelled jackets and the trainers paired with the well constructed trousers and slim fitted shorts. Dalton’s collection started the first London Collections: Men with a dignified bang, once again showing her passion and obsession for sophisticated menswear.

London Collections: Men - Hackett London SS 2013

Hackett London’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection was truly a celebration of the English Gentleman. Against the backdrop of the Royal Opera House, the collection opened with three-piece suits in subtle pastel shades, inspired by the 1920s and The Great Gatsby.  The collection progressed to more casual, resort-inspired looks in bright, vibrant hues. One of my favourite looks was the white double-breasted jacket layered over a paisley print scarf and trousers. Brightly coloured or patterned espadrilles were paired with the casual looks. The show finale featured a troupe of twelve dashing models in impeccably tailored suits and bowler hats striding majestically along the catwalk. From pinstripes to tweeds and linens the collection boasted a rich variety of fabrics and cuts, once again proving that British luxury tailoring will always be a force to be reckoned with.

Image via: www.bainser.com 

Images via: HommeModel

London Collections: Men - TOPMAN DESIGN SS 2013

Possibly one of the most obvious trends seen in the TOPMAN DESIGN SS 13 collection was the short suit. Graphic floral prints inspired by graffiti artist, Jean-Michel Basquiat were paired with suits made from classic Prince of Wales check fabric. Neoprene cycling shorts were worn under tailored shorts for a contemporary look and accessorised with fluoro beanies. As is custom with TOPMAN DESIGN collections, the attention to detail was brilliant, especially the perforated suede biker jackets and the cut-away boots worn with socks. Cropped football jerseys in block colours reflected the youthful, relaxed feel of the collection, probably not the easiest trend to pull off though. It will be interesting to see how the neon-saturated colour palette filters into the mass market next spring.

Images via: HommeModel

London Collections: Men

I’ve been following fashion weeks for a while now, especially London Fashion Week. One thing I noticed about LFW is the way the week is split with Womenswear taking up the first 5 days and Menswear on the last day. To be honest I was quite amazed at how they manage to fit all the menswear shows into one day. The interest and enthusiasm in quality British men’s fashion has grown impressively in the last few years, meaning that that one day at London Fashion week just isn’t enough to showcase the amazing talents we have in the UK. London Collections: Men is the result, rather than one crowded day, all the shows and events will be spread over 3 days, starting on the 15th June and ending on the 17th. With all the buzz around London what with the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics, it’s a great time  for British menswear to be showcased on such a grand scale. I’m beyond excited and I can’t wait to see how it all unfolds. 



For more info check out the website: London Collections: Men

The Faces of Menswear Fall/Winter 2012/13

Am I the only one feeling slightly nostalgic now that the fashion week buzz is slowly dying down? Anyway the lovely guys at Luisaviaroma have put together a great round-up of behind the scenes footage featuring the people that made the various fashion weeks so amazing — the models! So whether you were there or like me, were part of the digital fashion audience, I hope you enjoy taking a look at The Faces of Menswear 2012/13.

London Fashion Week AW 2012 - Agi&Sam

Agi & Sam’s show yesterday in London was by far one of the most creative and vibrant collections presented during Menswear day. As usual, prints featured prominently in their show in outrageous shades of colour. My favourite looks had to be the white suit with printed birds all over it as well as the blue printed jacket over a blue two-button blazer and a turtle neck sweater. The way they mixed the prints with block colours was really quite inspiring. The off-white overcoat with drawstring detail was brilliant too. I loved the way they experimented with slightly longer shirts under jackets.

I think what they do so well is present crazy prints in a way that makes them ultra wearable and eye-catching at the same time. I’m going to have to put the whole collection on my wishlist!

London Fashion Week AW 2012 - Oliver Spencer

I really enjoyed Oliver Spencer’s AW 2012 collection. Inspired by Art House and the 50s Beatnik movement, he presented a collection that was as broad and diverse as the models who walked in his show. I thought that his collection was fit for a man of any age or social class. This was reflected in the cut and the fit. One of my favourite pieces was the red varsity jacket which reminded me of something similar I saw in Junya Watanabe’s AW 2011 collection. I also loved the brown jacket with red panels, I would have liked to see that in some other colour variations.

London Fashion Week AW 2012 - Topman Design

The TOPMAN DESIGN show was definitely a monochrome affair, with models taking to the runway in various tones of black and grey. This was probably one of only a few London shows that featured a really reserved colour palette but it made up for that in texture and layering. You can tell from the images that they’ve used quality fabrics. What I loved about this collection was the great, slim silhouette and the attention to detail. I really liked the idea of the cinched waist with the overcoat. My favourite pieces would have to be the fur lined biker jacket and the shaggy overcoat below.

Here’s a big shout out to everyone that watched the TOPMAN DESIGN live stream from my blog, thanks for the love!

Images via: londonfashionweek.co.uk

Watch The Street - #1

With the weather in the UK not exactly warming up yet I thought I’d kick off this week’s new feature, Watch The Street with warmer looks from the recent fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. Here are some of my favourites, seen through the lens of Tommy Ton.

Spotted: Milan

One of my favourite looks has to be Bruce Pask in this luxe Dries Van Noten navy coat with fur on one side of the lapel from the Fall 2012 collection. It’s such a statement piece and I’d love to see this filter down into some of the department stores this winter. I’m tempted to recreate this look myself, DIY style!

Spotted: Florence

Here’s one of the reasons I love winter, you really get to experiment with texture and pattern in a way that you can’t in warmer weather. I just love how well he complemented his pink houndstooth jacket with that sleeveless grey puffer jacket. It’s one of the best examples I’ve seen of mixing sportswear with formal. If anyone can identify this gentleman or that blazer I will be very pleased!

Images via: Tommy Ton