The Owls: Agi & Sam x Topman Collection

Over the past three years, British design duo Agi & Sam have succeeded in injecting the landscape of British menswear with their unique sense of style and humour. When I started seriously considering starting up my own blog a few years ago, Agi & Sam was one of the first British labels I was instantly drawn to. Seeing the models come down the runway clad in those vivid digital prints that have become part of the Agi & Sam signature was a really captivating sight. The ladies might cling to their Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto prints but I’m pretty sure Agi & Sam have been really instrumental in making print cool again for menswear. 

Three seasons on and the buzz surrounding the East London designers is phenomenal. Releasing an exclusive collaboration with high street powerhouse, TOPMAN is a stroke of genius. With London Collections: Men fast approaching, this is the perfect time to introduce their label to a much wider audience. 

The designers took inspiration from their East London neighbourhood and the sporting spirit of the 2012 Olympics as the starting point for their 20 piece collection. What better place to start than Britain’s favourite sport? Yeah we’re talking football! The duo created a complete kit for their imaginary team, ‘The Owls.’ Watercolour feathers, speckled egg shells and owls are motifs used across the entire collection. I really love the way they’ve taken a stereotypically masculine idea of sportswear and supercharged it with their tongue-in-cheek humour and expertise in print and colour. Aside from the sportswear, the collection boasts a strong range of suits and shirting in slick silhouettes. 

As a HUGE fan of the watercolour ducks and chickens that punctuated their AW12 runway collection I’m chuffed that they've added a charming avian touch to this new capsule collection. I’m totally obsessed with the white, owl print football jersey and that double breasted suit in the speckled egg print. ‘The Owls’ collection launches on June 4th.

Side Note: It took me ages to find out the name of the handsome brunette modeling this collection. For anyone who cares, his name is Tom Middlehurst. I love his boyish charm, chiseled cheekbones and freckles...definitely my male model of the moment!

Designer Spotlight: DIEGO VANASSIBARA

Diego Vanassibara is an emerging mens shoe designer. The half Brazilian, half Italian designer studied at the prestigious Cordwainer's College of Footwear and also has a background in Architecture. I came across Diego and his collection at London Collections earlier this month. I was drawn to the pieces of polished wood crafted onto each shoe. They looked so different compared to a lot of the footwear that's out at the moment. 

His Autumn Winter 2013 collection is made up of six different models, have a closer look at them below. Diego takes inspiration from traditional shoes like the Oxford and Derby, combined with a modern, contemporary twist. Diego chose a rich, autumnal palette: deep shades of coal grey and midnight blue and earthy tones of brown and olive. Traditional Javanese techniques and fine Italian craftsmanship are used to shape each hand-carved wooden component. The wooden components are made of Lacquered Mahogany and New Guinea Rosewood.

The level of craftsmanship seeps through every part of his collection, from the finely polished wooden parts and hand painted leather to the intricate woven leather panels (one of my favourite things ever!). The collection is all about individuality and youthfulness and this obvious in the different silhouettes. The hybrid Derby/Oxford shoe are sophisticated yet fashion forward and the boots have a slightly stacked sole which is so on-trend.  

Talking to Diego and his business partner at London Collections was a real treat, it was great seeing a designer that is as deeply involved and passionate about his work as he is. Without a doubt, I think Diego Vanassibara is one to watch in 2013. 

For more info check his out his website. 

Images courtesy of Diego Vanassibara

Xander Zhou - London Collections: Men AW 13

Xander Zhou's Autumn Winter 2013 collection was a tribute to the "self-confident boy", just as comfortable on the street as he is on the catwalk. He presented a body of work that was heavily inspired by streetwear and military staples, re-presented in luxurious, tactile fabrics. The beloved hoodie and bomber jacket were re-imagined and given a sartorial yet ultra wearable edge. Metal monograms on lapels and ornate brooches were a throwback to military uniforms.

In contrast to the more formal tailoring Xander infused a sense of playfulness and mischief to the collection. This could be seen in the tongue in cheek catchphrases like "BOYS WILL BE BOYS" and "I AM UNDRESSING YOU" which were stitched or printed on to collars and around the frames of sunglasses. The footwear was one of my favourite aspects of the collections. They were designed with an 80s sneaker feel that was an appealing contrast to the sharp tailoring.

Zhou was able to cleverly toe the lines of gender with floor-length coats and jumpers that draped subtly over the shoulder, cropped tops and high-waisted trousers. I really loved the way he played with varying lengths and layering in a way that seemed almost futuristic but not totally over-the-top.

Although he's still relatively new on the British menswear scene, Zhou's talent is undeniable. There's a level of detail and expertise that can only be experienced when you see these garments up close. Luckily I had the privilege of seeing them from the front row and I was spellbound. He closed the London Collections line-up in fine style and definitely gained a new fan in me. 






 

Matthew Miller - London Collections: Men AW 13

"A New Revolution" was at the core of Matthew Miller's Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Staged in the cavernous interior of the Old Sorting Office he sent his models out in shades of black and slate. Brief flashes of red echoed the anarchy and rebellion of a discontent generation.

Miller used the slogan "Born To Fail" as a metaphor for the current state of society and the disparity between Generation X and Y. The slogan was seen emblazoned on sweatshirts and expertly stitched onto jacket sleeves. There was an air of precision in the tailoring and overcoats that reminded me of uniforms. The show notes talked about taking the uniforms of Generation X and re-purposing them for "a displaced Generation Y." An idea that is very much on trend when you look at the youth of today.

Personal highlights included the gradient knit jumper, the crocodile embossed biker jacket and the army issue styled luggage, a collaboration with H by Harris. I also loved the shoes, which were a collaboration with Timberland. Matthew created exclusive custom made footwear that featured the red and black accents from the collection.

Matthew Miller presented a collection that was more commercial than his past efforts (who can forget the gorgeous grafitti print suit from AW12?) but didn't compromise on the depth and high standards that he is known for.

James Long - London Collections: Men AW 13

 

James Long's Autumn Winter 2013 collection took the established preconception of casual sportswear and turned it on its head. From the elasticated trouser legs that accompanied every look to the embellished hoodies and rubberised plaid macs, there was a sense of playfulness that created a contemporary and wearable silhouette. Long's signature knits were also prominent, the way he cleverly created incredibly detailed 'visual terrains' in his knitwear was deeply satisfying. Long's new spin on the classic bomber jacket featured geometric padding and quilting fused with knitted sleeves.

Then there were the nods to John Waters, pink flamingos and one of his most iconic characters, Divine. There was a real sense of excitement when those all-too-familiar arched eyebrows were seen emblazoned on raglan sleeved jumpers and sweatshirts. These glamorous motifs were a stark contrast to the dark, mood colour palette they were rendered in.

His attention to detail and vast experiments with fabric and technique again proved why James Long is a force to be reckoned with in the fashion industry. Seeing him at the end of the show in one of the rubberised macs from the collection was a nice touch, a great sign that he believes in the work he showcased.


Images via: HommeModel

YMC - London Collections: Men AW13

There was a palpable sense of nostalgia in the Autumn Winter 2013 collection from YMC. Designer Fraser Moss took inspiration from the brand's post-punk, 90s roots. The youthful exuberance and frustration that defined the era was represented by the beret, a clear statement piece for the season. The combination of relaxed knitwear and fine tailoring gave the collection an understated cool factor that really embodies the YMC look. Zip detailing and exaggerated pockets on boiler suits and chinos were functional, almost uniform-like.

Moss' palette for Autumn/Winter was predominantly black and grey but it was the rich jade tones and brief flashes of pink and red that really brought the collection to life. One of my favourite highlights was a jade green cardigan over a checkerboard print shirt and slate coloured chinos topped with a beret and shades. It just screamed effortless sophistication.
 

There's something really charming about YMC's 'no frills' approach to design, nothing seems just thrown on to distract or shock. The result is a collection that is timeless but contemporary at the same time.

Images via: HommeModel

LONDON COLLECTIONS: Men - Day 2

By now you'll know that London Collections: Men is in full swing, after Monday's brilliant turnout it'll be great to see what Day 2 brings. It all kicks off this morning with a special presentation from Burberry. Margaret Howell will be the first runway show of the day at 10.30am. Today's highlights will include collections from emerging talents SIBLING and Christopher Shannon and favourites like Jonathan Saunders and Oliver Spencer. We'll also see a return of the menswear collections from Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood to the London Fashion Week calendar. So there's no doubt that there will be something for everyone today.

BLEU06 will be in the thick of it on Day 2! I managed to nab tickets for YMC, James Long London and Oliver Spencer so look out for live updates and pictures on Twitter @BLEU06ike and Instagram: @BLEU06 

Catch the live stream here and stay tuned for the latest reviews and images from each day.


Here's the full schedule for today:

Image Credits:
Menswear Photography: Sam Hofman 

LIVESTREAM - LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

The second edition of London Collections: Men kicks off today. All eyes will be fixed on London's best and brightest designers over the next 3 days. From fashion stalwarts like Hackett and TOPMAN DESIGN to some of our favourite emerging talents like Agi & Sam and SIBLING to name just a few. Lou Dalton, a personal favourite of mine will kick things off at 10 am, live from The Hospital Club in the heart of London. Catch the live stream here and stay tuned for the latest reviews and images from each day.

Watch out for live updates on twitter: @BLEU06ike



Here's the full schedule for today:

Image Credits:
Menswear Photography: Sam Hofman 

London Collections: Men - Oliver Spencer SS 2013

Russian Modernism and painter Ben Nicholson were the main inspirations behind Oliver Spencer’s Spring Summer collection for 2013. Spencer has been known for his skilful use of colour and this season was no exception. Vivid shades of blue, orange and red punctuated the grey backdrop of the Old Sorting Office. Spencer breathed new life into signature pieces like The Portland Jacket and the Fisher Jacket with new colour ways and fabric finishes. Aztec prints were expertly applied to jackets and shirts with co-ordinating shorts. Rolled up trouser legs lent a more relaxed silhouette to suiting. The board short was another fine addition to the Oliver Spencer line. Plush suede monk strap and derby  shoes provided the finishing touches to each look.


One of the best things about Oliver Spencer’s show yesterday was the casting, the models that walked the runway varied from fresh faced guys to silver foxes (including an appearance by TOPMAN DESIGN’s head designer Gordon Richardson). As a whole the collection depicted Oliver Spencer as a designer who caters for every man who favours quality and a rigorous attention to detail. It’s refreshing to see a designer who really knows his clientele and is brave enough to put forward a show that would appeal to that audience.


Special thanks to Oliver Spencer and Surgery PR for giving me the opportunity to experience such an exciting show.

Reggie Yates, Dermot O’Leary and David Gandy on the front row at Oliver Spencer

London Collections: Men - SIBLING SS 2013

Since their debut collection in 2008, SIBLING has succeeded in constantly pushing the boundaries of men’s knitwear with innovation and a healthy dose of English humour. Today’s presentation was inspired the youth culture of Brick Lane and the revolutions in Paris and the Arab world. Light-weight knits and cropped jogging shorts in white, pink and shimmering gold dominated the collection. Shrugs and cardigans were festooned with thousands of acrylic paillettes and layered over crisp white shirts or embroidered jumpers.  An urban variation on a Toile de Jouy in a rich blue hue. The extravagant 'pom-pom’ masks were the highlights of a truly spectacular show. It’s no wonder why SIBLING has become one of the most sought-after designer collections on the menswear calendar.

Images via: HommeModel

London Collections: Men - Lou Dalton SS 2013

The beauty of Lou Dalton’s Summer/Spring 2013 collection was it’s simplicity. That being said, every cut and stitch was precise and considered creating a look that was both wearable and functional. The muted colour palette of icy blues, crisp whites, beiges and navy only emphasised Dalton’s high level of craftsmanship. Accents of neon green and maroon complimented the refined silhouette of the Dalton man. The underlying ethos of tailored pieces juxtaposed with the sports-luxe aesthetic was cleverly employed throughout the collection. This is most evident in the mesh panelled jackets and the trainers paired with the well constructed trousers and slim fitted shorts. Dalton’s collection started the first London Collections: Men with a dignified bang, once again showing her passion and obsession for sophisticated menswear.

London Collections: Men - TOPMAN DESIGN SS 2013

Possibly one of the most obvious trends seen in the TOPMAN DESIGN SS 13 collection was the short suit. Graphic floral prints inspired by graffiti artist, Jean-Michel Basquiat were paired with suits made from classic Prince of Wales check fabric. Neoprene cycling shorts were worn under tailored shorts for a contemporary look and accessorised with fluoro beanies. As is custom with TOPMAN DESIGN collections, the attention to detail was brilliant, especially the perforated suede biker jackets and the cut-away boots worn with socks. Cropped football jerseys in block colours reflected the youthful, relaxed feel of the collection, probably not the easiest trend to pull off though. It will be interesting to see how the neon-saturated colour palette filters into the mass market next spring.

Images via: HommeModel

London Collections: Men Playlist: Day 1

London Collections: Men starts today, with over 50 shows and presentations by the best designers from around the country. Prince Charles hosted a special reception to launch the 3 day-event which ends on Sunday. I’ve put together a 5-track playlist for each day to get me through the endless waiting and jumping from venue to venue.

Check out the full playlist on Spotify: http://spoti.fi/MTgBiV

Seye - White Noise

Liquorice - Azealia Banks

Blood, Sweat & Tears - Paloma Faith

Love Lockdown - Kanye West

Kids - Sleigh Bells

ShortList's London Collections Limited Edition Covers

ShortList is probably the only free weekly publications I enjoy reading on the tube. Britain’s biggest men’s lifestyle magazine has released 3 limited edition covers for it’s London Collections: Men Style Special Issue. Topman Design, Liam Gallagher and Oliver Spencer were drafted in to design these limited edition covers which are available from today. So far I’ve managed to get images of the covers designed by Topman and Liam Gallagher, look out for the last one soon!

Images via: ShortList Magazine

TOPMAN DESIGN Spring/Summer 2013 Show

London Collections: Men starts on Friday, and one of the highlights of the event will be the TOPMAN DESIGN SS13 Collection. So here’s your invite to the show on Friday. It will take place at 12PM UK Time (13:00 CEST / 4am PST / 7am EDT). Like last year, TOPMAN DESIGN will be tweeting each look before it hits the catwalk so make sure you’re following the TOPMAN Tweetwalk. You can do this by following @TopmanUK. So get involved, your tweet may be featured on their live twitter feed. The hashtag for Friday’s show will be:
#TOPMAN
Hit the play button bellow to watch the show

The British Designers Collective

This week summer finally kicked in here in the UK so I decided to take a day trip to Bicester Village in Oxfordshire. For those of you who haven’t heard of it, it’s a lovely designer outlet home to various high-end designer labels like Burberry, Versace, Calvin Klein etc. My major reason for going though, was to have a look at the British Designers Collective. Like the upcoming London Collections: Men event it’s another way British Design is being showcased this summer.

TOPMAN x NEWGEN: Menswear Rules Britannia

TOPMAN and NEWGEN come together for another brilliant collaboration to celebrate the upcoming showcase, London Collections: Men. The collection is launched on the 7th of June and features designs from top NEWGEN menswear designers Lou Dalton, Katie Eary, SIBLING, Christopher Shannon and James Long. £5 from every purchase will go towards The British Fashion Council's Princess of Wales Charitable Trust which supports young designers.

I’ve got my eyes on the Katie Eary and SIBLING t-shirts, what would you pick?